The buckskin bachelor looks like he is running right toward me, but I am above him

I was in the Sand Wash Basin Herd Area in Colorado last week.  Sometimes just finding wild horses can be a challenge, and it does help to know where waterholes are, where the horses like to be at certain times of the year, and other details about their behavior and their lives.  The best way to find this out is by going and spending time with them.

A beautiful gray stallion following his band

One morning I was lucky enough to be in an area where many bands of horses were watering, at a waterhole with a well.

I wanted to be in a position where I could photograph the horses coming in to the waterhole with the sun behind my back, but I also did not want to be so close to the waterhole that I frightened them and scared them away.  Horses are vulnerable when they are drinking, and alert for predators.

The stallions are always fun to watch

I ended up sitting on a hill overlooking the waterhole, but quite a distance from it.  The horses could see me from very far away but I stayed still, and finally I was rewarded by many bands and bachelors coming to drink.

A long lens works best for photographing wild horses because it allows you to get good shots but be far enough away that you are not disturbing the horses’ behavior.

Two bachelors would love to take the red roan's new family

I had a feeling that there might be some action because it is spring and bachelor stallions are on the lookout for any opportunity to steal a mare, so I set my iso on 250 and my shutter speed on 1/1000, which works well for capturing action.  In a situation where things might happen quickly and I may not have much time to change settings, I try to anticipate the settings I will need, so I don’t have to be scrambling and fumbling later.

A family band moves away from the waterhole after they have a drink

Sleeping in the Flowers in the Pryor Mountains

Spring is finally here, and it is time to go visit the wild herds.  In my opinion, the best time of year to photograph wild horses is in spring and early summer, since the foals and being born, the stallions are vying for mares, and the horses are very active.

When visiting wild horse areas, it is important to be respectful of the horses.  In some areas where wild horses are accustomed to the presence of people, it may be easy to get close to them, but be careful to stay at least 50 feet away at all times, for your sake and for theirs.  These are wild animals, and they do not act like domestic horses.  If you get between a mare and foal or between a stallion and his mare, you can cause stress for the horses as well as putting yourself in a dangerous situation.  Remember, this is their home, and we are visitors.

My favorite way to observe wild horses is to pick a good vantage point, with the sun behind me, falling on my subjects, far enough away so that the horses are not alarmed by my presence. I sit down and watch quietly, and wait for a good moment to take some photographs.  I sometimes spend hours waiting for a band to wait up from a mid-morning nap, or waiting for horses to come to water.  One of the best ways to get good photographs is to learn the behavior of the horses, and then anticipate what they might do next, and put yourself in a good position to capture the photos.

Bolder runs to his family band

For example, Bolder, Cloud’s son in the Pryor Mountains was visiting with a group of bachelors at the waterhole.  I knew that at some point he would run back to his family, so I put myself in a good position to capture that, and waited until he ran by.  I had my camera set at a shutter speed of 1/1000 so I could freeze the action.

This filly stretches after a mid-morning nap

Being at a good angle is also important. If you want foal photographs, you need to get low.  Here I waited for the filly to wake up, sitting on the ground, and when she stretched, I pushed the shutter.

I recommend getting out to see wild horses in the wild, while they are still there.  It is the best way to appreciate them, and see why we must fight for their right to stay free.

For more information on wild horses, go to www.WildHoofbeats.com

The extravagant mane of this Andalusian falls over his face

One of the most interesting aspects of photographing horses is that no two horses are exactly alike,  in personality, conformation and appearance. This makes things interesting and challenging when working to take a good image of a horse. If you are photographing a horse without a human, you want to capture the expression and beauty of the horse. When you are shooting a particular breed of horse, learning about what the breed standards  will help you.

The mane of this Andalusian stallion flies up as he runs

Some breeds of horses have features that are easy to emphasize, and capture a good image – for example, Andalusians, especially stallions, will usually have a long flowing mane.  One of the best ways to highlight the mane is either to get a photo of the horse as he is running, and the mane is flying up.

You can see the long neck of this Arabian as he turns his head

Arabians are prized for their long, elegant necks and dished faces, so emphasize those features.

In the side shot of this Friesian, his head looks proportional

Freisians have very large heads, and photographing them head on is not flattering, so when taking a portrait of a Friesian, I make sure that I use different angles so that his head looks noble, not huge.

From behind, the power of this Fresian is emphasized

Use your imagination when trying different angles.

Mica bites at Cremosso's legs as all three mustangs run in the snow

This year in Colorado has been an unpredictable one in regards to the weather.  We have had cold and snow, and now warm sunny days, but the threat of snow is still real, with March and April sometimes our snowiest months, and although plants and trees  are budding, it is too early to be taking beautiful green spring shots.  So I prepare for the bad weather, and when it comes, I get out with my camera.

There are many expensive camera and lens covers that you can buy, but you can also use a plastic bag with a rubber band.  When it is snowing, if I am out a short amount of time, I will usually not even cover my camera, but will dry it off thoroughly once I get back inside. The lens hood provides shelter for the lens so that the snow does not get in unless the wind is blowing at you. Rain is tougher on a camera and lens than snow, so make sure you cover your camera and lens carefully in the rain.

Mica, Cremosso and Claro

This winter I had many days of snow, and the easiest subjects for me to shoot were my adopted mustangs, Mica and the Cremello Colts.

A high shutter speed is necessary to capture the flying snow

If it is overcast and snowing, you will need to increase your ISO in order to have enough light, and if you are shooting action, this is even more important. In this image of Cremosso and Mica running toward me, I have my shutter speed set at 1/640 in order to freeze the snow as it flies up under their feet.

When horses are running toward you, you can get away with a lower shutter speed than 1/1000 to freeze the action, but if they are running by you, make sure you have  a shutter speed of at least 1/1000 in order to freeze the action.

Horses running by you need a higher shutter speed

Spring will be here to stay soon, but in the meantime, you can still get out and shoot!

]]> http://www.horsephotographyworkshops.com/horse-photography-while-waiting-for-spring-shoot-in-bad-weather/feed 0 http://www.horsephotographyworkshops.com/horse-photography-workshops-taos-art-school-fall-2011 http://www.horsephotographyworkshops.com/horse-photography-workshops-taos-art-school-fall-2011#comments Sat, 15 Oct 2011 18:17:18 +0000 Carol Walker http://www.horsephotographyworkshops.com/?p=549

Ginger in front of the Adobe wall

I was invited by the Taos Art School in Taos, New Mexico to teach a 4 day workshop on Horse Photography this fall of 2011.
The idea was to provide the students with experience shooting a variety of breeds of horses in a variety of settings, and to provide instruction and hands on coaching while shooting.

Ginger looks

On our first day, after a lecture and slideshow, Ginger, a Missouri Fox Trotter, came to our hotel, and the students photographed her in a a variety of settings.

Ginger with her owner Karen

Releasing the horse so he can run in - this time I am standing upright

I just got back from an amazing trip to Camargue, France where I was able to photograph the Camargue horses in a number of wonderful settings.
Today I will be talking about adjusting your position in order to get a better photograph, using a couple of images from the trip.

Down low - the ears are in the horizon line

We were at the beach, and normally I would say get low to get a better shot – these are small horses, and usually I tell people to get eye level or below with their subjects. However, this time that was not good advice! With the beach dropping down from where we were standing, when I got low, I had the horizon cutting across behind the horse’s head.

Shooting from higher up the horizon disappears

And when I stood up and got my angle higher, the horizon disappeared from behind the horse and I could crop it out, making for a much more pleasing photo and emphasizing my subject. Always try different things, and see what you like.

Backlight adds drama to this image of a cowboy and the horse herd

Light is the most important tool that a photographer can use.  In this post I will discuss backlight, which is different than direct light.  When you are using backlight, you are shooting directly into the sun, which is behind your subjects.  Use the lens hood on your camera lens to minimize flare.  The best time of day to do this is early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the sun is lowest in the sky.  The effect you will achieve is the details of your subject will be darkened.  You can get a glow around your subject as well.

Wild Horses at sunrise create a dramatic silhouette

You can capture a dramatic sunrise or sunset in the background, which will add drama to your images. Find out what time the sun will be rising or setting, and where, and place your subject in front of the sun.  The subject can also end up all black, in a silhouette which is beautiful for artistic images. Practice using backlight in different settings and at different times of the day.

A silhouette gives a feeling of intimacy in the image

Cowboy and his horse pulling a Christmas Tree in the snow

After the snow has fallen, and the sun comes out in the afternoon or the next day, you can have a beautiful untouched snowscape for your photographs.

If the sun is shining and there is snow on the ground, you will have a very bright scene, because the snow will reflect the light.  You need to decrease your ISO to probably 100 or 200.  But you do not want to blow out the detail on the snow by overexposing  and you do not want gray looking snow because your light meter underexposes the scene. To get a well exposed photo in the snow you will want to increase your exposure compensation in your camera to +1 or +2.  If you are using a point and shoot that does not have a control for exposure compensation, then meter for the sky using spot metering or partial metering.

Three horses run together in the snow

If you are shooting a horse in action in the snow, make sure you use shutter priority and increase your shutter speed to at least 1/1000.  You can photograph people riding in the snow, horses running in the snow, and even wild horses in the snow.  Bundle up, and enjoy!

Wild stallion in Adobe Town, WY on New Years Day

Close up of an Anadalusian Stallion in the falling snow

My very favorite time to photograph horses is when they are in the snow. As long as I am bundled up so that I am not cold, I can stay out for hours photographing.

There are two different times I do snow photography – when it is snowing, and after it has snowed, and cleared up.  Today I will discuss photographing when it is snowing. First,  make sure you cover your camera up, especially if you are going to be out for a long time. You can buy those expensive camera covers but I will often just use a plastic bag, and have a towel handy to dry off my camera.

Morgan gelding trotting in the snow

Now, when you approach your subject, keep in mind that your autofocus is going to try to focus on the falling snowflakes, not the horse.  I usually put my focus on manual so I can focus on the horse, not the snowflakes.

Next, if it is snowing, it will be overcast, so make sure you increase your iso high enough – you may need 500, 640, or even 800 or 1000 if you are wanting to capture a moving horse.

Andalusian Mare running in the snow, which has turned into a blizzard

Then, because you have a snowy mostly white scene you might need to increase your exposure compensation to as much as +1 or even +2 to get your exposure right.  Your light meter is going to give you readings to get an average GREY scene, but you want a white scene, hence the need to use compensation.  Check your camera’s manual to see how to do this.  Try portraits when the horse is standing still, get the snow on his back, the icicles in his mane and whiskers if he has been outside for a while,  and then get your subject moving, kicking up the snow.

Photographing the levade indoors using flash

Of course it is also good to photograph OUTDOORS when the weather is bad, but that will be another post!
Today I am going to talk about photographing in indoor arenas. There are a number of different ways to approach this, and it all depends upon your equipment and the facility where you are shooting.
You may have seen shows where the show photographer has set up flashes high up in the rafters of the arena and these fire as the horse goes by. This is not the system I used when I used to photograph shows indoors but it is certainly a system that works well – I have seen it used for jumping and barrel racing.

Photographing at an exhibition using flash

I am going to discuss shooting with a single flash mounted on the camera. The integrated flashes that come with many cameras today are a piece of junk. You need to use a flash mounted on top of your camera to get good results. Use a tripod or monopod to support the camera, and set the flash on TTL and high speed if you are going to be photographing action, and adjust it to the length lens you will be using. Pick out a spot in the arena where the horses go by and the background is uncluttered and put yourself in front of that area, and shoot when they go by. Your single flash will not be able to cover the entire arena so you want to concentrate on where it does work. I set the camera at about 500 ISO, and out the shutter speed as high as it will go indoors, usually 1/400th.

"Flash Eye" on a horse

One issue with shooting like this is that you will get “flash eye” on the horse and rider and need to fix it in photoshop later. Another issue is you may have riders who are nervous about their horses spooking at the flash, and they will ask you not to use it. I never flash a horse directly in the face as he is approaching me, and you never want to scare a horse and put a rider in a potentially bad situation, so be sensitive to your subjects and how they react to the flash. Just as with other aspects of photography, practice, practice, practice! This is perfect for wintertime when you are stuck inside.